Saturday, November 13, 2010

Alphabet Soup

The last 9 days were spent hiking numerous hours, miles, inclines and declines. Torres del Paines is probably the most popular national park in Chile. Known for the "Horns" and "Towers". The horns are striking as they have sedimentary rock on top (black) and a harder white stone as the base. Looks like a dessert to me, but geology is not my thing. Between these two features are valleys which present striking views. One has a couple of options when hiking this part of the park. The "W" covers the highlights in 4-5 days. The "O" or full circuit offers not only the highlights but also remoteness on the backside and addition views from John Garner Pass into the Southern Ice-fields and Dickson Glacier in 9 days. Of course I chose the later for some reason. In actuality I did the "Q" as I missed the French Valley because I got a horrific head cold that day and spent it sleeping. The highlights were seeing the sun light up the towers a firery red as it rose in the morning. Meeting the people along the way. Traveling the backside with the same few people. The remoteness of the backside. The excellent weather, sun, overcast, low wind, no rain....could not have been better. The lowlights were a controlling guide that thank goodness came up withe the excuse of a twisted knee to get me a replacement guide who was much better. The same crapy backpacking food. Quirkinesses. The Spaniards do the circuit clockwise while all others go counterclockwise. Chileans and Israelites will hike extra miles for one of the free campsites. Tons of Germans and French on the trail. Part of the park is still a working estancia which means you are hiking amongst cattle and this time of year calves. Most memorable scene is the gaucho riding up to us with his 7-8 dogs running along side him and his horse. At the end of it all I would recommend doing the "W" and staying in the refugios and eating your meals there. It is difficult to camp when it is chilly and only a few feet away is a warm cushy bed. And that is what you get one of possibly 9 bunks in a room. But it is a easy way to see the highlights. The added bonus was loosing a few extra pounds. I guess that is what the full circuit and backpacking food will do. If I decide to do 3 weeks in Nepal I better gain some weight prior or pack alot of chocolate bars. *photos will come later as I did not have my phone with me. But google the park and you will see.

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