On The Bike

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What a great way to start out a quiet morning in Santiago, on a bike tour. We covered a couple of neighborhoods as well as the vegetable market and the fish market. It was very informative.

Afterwards it was time for delicious rose gelato and a trip on the metro to see the shining buildings and expensive stores. The area was nice but disappointing to see Starbucks, Ruby Tuesday, and Applebees soon to open. Then it was onto the Cultural museum, but I am worn out.

Nap time and then back to the USA.

From The Air

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It is one thing to see it all from the ground but to have a recap from the air, WOW! The first photo is the Perito Moreno Glacicer. I had posted photos of this early on. The second photo is of Fritz Roy, wow does it stand out in the mountain range and look at the backside all snow and probably a glacier underneath. What a treasure to see it all again from a different perspective.

Wildlife

Some of the wildlife I have seen in Patagonia include, redheaded (M) woodpecker, fox, flamingos (real not plastic yard ornaments), wild lamas, hares, several ducks and condors. But know pumas, they are very rare to see.

Alphabet Soup

The last 9 days were spent hiking numerous hours, miles, inclines and declines. Torres del Paines is probably the most popular national park in Chile. Known for the "Horns" and "Towers". The horns are striking as they have sedimentary rock on top (black) and a harder white stone as the base. Looks like a dessert to me, but geology is not my thing. Between these two features are valleys which present striking views. One has a couple of options when hiking this part of the park. The "W" covers the highlights in 4-5 days. The "O" or full circuit offers not only the highlights but also remoteness on the backside and addition views from John Garner Pass into the Southern Ice-fields and Dickson Glacier in 9 days. Of course I chose the later for some reason. In actuality I did the "Q" as I missed the French Valley because I got a horrific head cold that day and spent it sleeping. The highlights were seeing the sun light up the towers a firery red as it rose in the morning. Meeting the people along the way. Traveling the backside with the same few people. The remoteness of the backside. The excellent weather, sun, overcast, low wind, no rain....could not have been better. The lowlights were a controlling guide that thank goodness came up withe the excuse of a twisted knee to get me a replacement guide who was much better. The same crapy backpacking food. Quirkinesses. The Spaniards do the circuit clockwise while all others go counterclockwise. Chileans and Israelites will hike extra miles for one of the free campsites. Tons of Germans and French on the trail. Part of the park is still a working estancia which means you are hiking amongst cattle and this time of year calves. Most memorable scene is the gaucho riding up to us with his 7-8 dogs running along side him and his horse. At the end of it all I would recommend doing the "W" and staying in the refugios and eating your meals there. It is difficult to camp when it is chilly and only a few feet away is a warm cushy bed. And that is what you get one of possibly 9 bunks in a room. But it is a easy way to see the highlights. The added bonus was loosing a few extra pounds. I guess that is what the full circuit and backpacking food will do. If I decide to do 3 weeks in Nepal I better gain some weight prior or pack alot of chocolate bars. *photos will come later as I did not have my phone with me. But google the park and you will see.

1 in 20

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The day started out a bit chilly and of course windy in El Chalten, home of the famed Fritz Roy. But I had come approx 6,000 miles I was going to make the trek even if the clouds were engulfing the mountain. So after a stop at the local pastry shop to pick up my sandwich I was off.

After 6 miles I came to the last and it looked all up. "All this to see a cloud in the sky.". Yes it was all up for an hour. After 30-40 min it looked as if it was starting to clear as I could now see the base. Well it was time to go back down so as I could be sure to make my bus. After an hour of down I turned back around and there it was, most of Fritz Roy. And as I walked away it became clearer and clearer. According to a local it is only entirely visible 20 days during the summer and thankfully I got one of them. We could even see it at 8:45pm (it stays dark v late) from probably 60 miles away.

To round out the day I saw a red headed woodpecker about 15 ft away doing his thing.

Big Ice

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PERITO MORENO GLACIER

Four hours trekking on the large glacier. Seeing how the surface changes from the edge to the middle, discovering winding streams, and deep holes where the water drains under/through the glacier.

Different Days In BA

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Due to the sudden death of former Argentinian President Kirchner travel in BA is I am sure different from say last Thursday. Traffic is very bad due to the many that want to travel to pay their respects. Tv's it seems in every cafe/bar and coverage is nonstop. The good news is that the metro was free, not sure of this is related or not. Today I head to El Calafate where he is from and where he died. We will see what awaits there.

Yesterday was a full day of walking seeing the tourist areas, wealthy, crowed, and less common. People are very friendly and accepting my lack of Spanish. Cafes everywhere, several ice cream shops, chocolatiers in the wealthy areas and Florida Ave is a pedestrian street lined with shops that is so noisy and crowed. Pedestrians are seem to be nonexistent to drivers.

The day was capped off with a typical parrila (grilled) dinner. Starting with fried, pan fried not battered, provolone cheese, huge sirloin steak and salad. This I ended up join three Americans as they were at the adjacent table. From there it was on to a couple of bars in the Rocelta area.

One last comment, they love dogs here. Several dog walkers as well as individual owners and independent dogs that seem to do well on their own in BA.

Now on to El Calafate.

Traveling Warrior

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Thanks to my friend Amanda for my traveling companion, appropriately named I think anyway.

Let The Games Begin!

Here we go. My trip is starting in ATL. After 10 hours in a cramped space sitting cm from one I don't know we will land in Buenos Aires. The itinerary is as follows:

Day 1: BA
Walking tour, 2 blks of yarn shops, leather, museums...suggestions?

Day 2: BA & fly to Patigona (El Cafalate)
Day 3: Big Ice Tour
12 hour tour, huge glacier, crampons, hiking, ice calving.
Day 4: Bus to El Chalten, hiking capital
Maybe another Glacier tour or hike.
Day 5: Big hike up Fritz Roy
Bus back to El Cafalate
Day 6: Bus to Puerto Natales, Chile
Start of 10 day backpack trip
Day 7-15: Torres de Paines National Park
Day 16: rest
Day 17: ?
Day 18: fly to Santiago
Day 19: Santiago

Going there is only one hour time difference and returning there will be two due to daylight savings.

Thanks for coming along for the ride!

Test

Last Minute

If you ever travel to Argentina best to use a travel agent and contact 45 days in advance! They save you money, so I hear, and it seems to be the way to go as I have had difficulty booking with hotels directly. Hostels are easier.

So after being turned down by one agent, ignored by another, I am hoping my hostel in BA will come through with bus tickets and a tour on the glacier. And then I will book my last hotel, knowing that I can get there!

And Chile, well we will just have to arrange that when I arrive in country. After back packing/camping for 8 nights I think anything will do.

Freakin' Out

oh so much to do and i am spending time on THIS? oh well it will be worth it in the end for those who are interested to follow and in the end this will serve as my travel diary. so sign up, get ready, and hopefully i will post daily...if i have a signal.